Understanding Acne.. Part 2 ...Exfoliation

Exfoliation… why we need to Exfoliate our Skin September and October so far have been the months that I have had many clients coming in for Deep Cleanse Facials. One of the most common thing going on between all of these clients is exfoliation…a lack thereof, or over exfoliation using medications and/or OTC concoctions and Pintrest based remedies that are too harsh, too often.

According to Wikipedia, it is the ancient Egyptians who are to thank for the practice of exfoliation yet it was in the Middle Ages that red wine was used as a chemical exfoliant, or “tartaric acid” peel. The word exfoliate comes from the Latin “exfoliare” or to strip off leaves”.

Dissecting your Skin The Skin itself is divides into 3 layers: Hypo-Dermis, Dermis and the Epidermis. For the Purpose of this blog, we are only speaking about the Epidermis, more so the uppermost layer called the “Stratum Corneum.” The Stratum Corneum for all intents and purposes, is made up of a consistency of dead skin-cells ( think Cornflakes) and a sebum (oil) substance which is much like honey. Cornflakes and Honey would probably be the best metaphor I can offer to those who are not of the medical field or a licensed aesthetician. The thicker this layer is, the more congested skin is and there is more potential for skin congestions and acne to occur. Your skin has a natura, l physical way of losing dead skin cells from the top layers of the skin, and this process is called desquamation. Exfoliation is the term used to ‘accelerate’ this process by using facial exfoliating products or ingesting prescribed medications which help the body to exfoliate. Optimally, the skin is turning over and evolving every thirty days. In teens this process goes along much faster and in mature adults, much slower.

The Versions of Exfoliation

In aesthy school, students are taught there are two forms of exfoliation. By chemical means (think chemical peels and medications that trigger body chemistry) and mechanically or by mechanical means. (think Microdermabrasion, Dermalplaning or other means which involve physically scrubbing the skin like loofahs and Apricot Scrubs) Mechanical also applies if you are a person that waxes brows, legs and other body parts). More why this is important later….

So How Often Should I be Exfolaiting?

I hear this comment a lot…I mean A LOT! The issue with not exfoliating is that your skin will be congested and dull and quite possibly become irritated if you are using the wrong products and are treated by a skincare professional with professional products. But Over-exfoliation will leave your skin red, tender, and sensitive. It’s also possible that if you’re not exfoliating, your complexion can look rough and dull and prevent topical ingredients from absorbing properly. It can also appear to some people that their skin is “oily” sending them to their local department store or counter sales person for “Oil-free” or “Oil Controlling”. These two terms are echoed in dermatology practices as well and prescriptions are handed out for meds like Differin or Accutane.

Let me break these down for you using the Mechanical and Chemical outlines as above:

• Scrubs that contain gentle exfoliating agents such as Jojoba beads or ingredients such as baking soda, give you more control because you can vary the pressure you apply when you're making those little circles. Scrubs that contains abrasives such as shells, hulls or charcoal can cut micro-tears into the skin…Micro-tears equal channels for bacteria to grow. You can manually exfoliate with for instance baking soda, 2-3 times per week.

• Rotating brushes can be irritating since the bristles are stiff and are known to twist and pull the skin. Those with softer bristles and vibrate in place (such as the Clarisonic Brush) can be used more often. Usually, clients use a gels cleanser with this type of brush and use it 3-5 days a week.

• Chemical exfoliants depend on the percentage of ingredient in the exfoliant itself. Ones with higher concentrations of acids should be limited to once weekly. In other words, if you are going through a package of peels to clear acne, you can only get a peel once a week! The amount of exfoliation depends on the percentage of ingredient in the exfoliant itself as well as being in communion with pre/post skincare . Exfoliants with higher concentrations of acids should be limited to once weekly. Your State regulates the percentage of "peel" that your skin care professional can use. So, in this case, if you are going through a package of peels to clear acne, you can only get a peel once a week!

In the end, exfoliation is GOOD for your skin. So is making a Consult appointment with a skincare professional to learn which exfoliant is good for you. To many clients are playing the guessing game with their choices of OTC products. Of course, consumers are taught that many issues can be solved at home. Which is true, but having guidance usually is a safe bet when it comes to making a plan of action. If you are not exfoliating, this could very well be the cause of your continued congestions and skin issues.

Want more info on the Clarisonic? Just click the picture above. They are an awesome investment for your skin.

I would love to hear your feedback. If there are any questions, or you would like to schedule a consult with me, please message me here in the comment section or through this website. Getting it right and exfoliating is easy! I have seen changes in client in as little as 15-30 days post beginning exfoliation!

Have a Beautiful Tuesday…don’t forget to exfoliate.

Angel