What Exactly is the "500 Dalton Rule"

By definition, the 500 Dalton Rule states that "molecules greater than 500 Daltons cannot penetrate the skin barrier".

Now you may be wondering "Why do I need to know this"? Well, it is relatively a simple answer. "Dalton" refers to the size of a molecule in the ingredients of your products and if you are a skin care therapist, the size of the molecules in the ingredients of the products you are selling, using in your treatment rooms and sending home with your clients for aftercare.

We have all heard at one time or another that the skin is the largest organ of the body. It is made up of both simple and complex structures. It contains many things such as melanocytes that color the skin, fat, collagen and elastin. The outermost layer of the epidermis (skin), the "stratum corneum" is composed of hardened cells mirroring a concoction of corn-flakes and honey that are constantly shedding. Of course, there is a lot more science in the explanation to be had when it comes to the layers of the skin, but in a nutshell, the different layers work in communion to perform a barrier so that things such as allergens do not get into the body.

Although a Barrier..the Skin is not Impenetrable

When we are talking about skincare ingredients, the topic of "Dalton measurement" should also come into play. A good explanation concenrning Dalton size as it refers to products was published in the journal of Experimental Dermatology.

( http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/10839713)

While somewhat wordy in the explanation, it gives us the hint that although a barrier, the skin is not impenetrable. Further, the explanation goes on to say that any ingredient with a higher than a 500 Dalton measurement could be ineffective to the skin or skin condition the product is meant to assist with.

What Does that Mean for Skincare? When I read the article on Experimental Dermatology, it made me start to look at ingredients more. Now, I am not fully sold on the fact that products with a larger then 500 Dalton measurement can't be penetrate-able. But...and this is a big but for me....we also as skincare professionals and consumers need to be educated on what is the proper or most effective "delivery system". The "delivery system" is how we can infuse ingredients into the skin so that they are used effectively.

Lets take for example, the most recent surgence of advertising for an ingredient known as Hylauronic Acid. We know that Hylauronic Acid or "HA" is a highly effective humectant, i.e. an ingredient that holds moisture. HA can hold hundreds of times its weight in water and is often used in moisturizing formulas. Indeed it can provide effective skin surface hydration, either alone or in combination with other moisturizing ingredients.

There is a considerable enthusiasm in the media about topical HA as a potential wrinkle cure. At present, such hopes are pretty exaggerated. Why because the HA variants typically used in skin care have a Dalton weight of 500,000 Daltons or more! Well beyond the 500 Weight which could be effective. Yikes!

So, how would you infuse Hylauronic Acid into the skin so that it is used effectively? By using such treatments as dermal needling and fractional treatments focussed on aerating the skin. Without aeration, there is SOME benefit, but more so to prevent the skin from suffering " TEWL" or Trans-Epidermal Water Loss.

The Bottom Line

For the skin to be affected by active ingredients such as Hylauronic Acid, the molecule size of the ingredient itself must be "micro-encapsulated" or at/below the 500 Dalton level. The problem is, unless it labeled as such, Consumers or Skin Care professionals are never really sure which product line is micro-encapsulated.

Food for Thought....I would be interested in your findings should you decide to investigate the products that are going on your skin OR what you are using on your client's skin! So far, no sales rep I have talked to can tell me what the Dalton rate of their products are. As a result based skincare therapist, I want what works for my clients and I am sure they want what is the same!

Stay Blessed, Be Pono and Always remember to Pay it Forward!

Angel

^j^

Special thanks to Dr. Larry and Krissy Groop for sending me on this quest for Daltons! I am beyong grateful for what I learned while studying at the Esthetics Advisor Academy! ( http://www.estheticadvisorlaseracademy.com/) Tell them Angel sent you!!

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